Frenchie Melancon (of Frenchie's Seafood Market near Church Point, Louisiana) tells me that pond raised catfish cannot do this dish justice. A whole fish cut into steaks is best. Even the boney pieces that form the back of the head should be added as they add flavor to the sauce. It must be a wild fish --- like yellow cat, spotted cat, or river cat. This is traditional for Friday evenings during the Lenten season. The sauce, like any tomato sauce, only gets better the longer it cooks. Add the fish near the end and "twist" the pot rather than stirring with a spoon. The fish will tend to break apart if you don't.
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